Wednesday, November 12, 2008

REFLECTIONS ON OUR SUMMER CRUISE

NOVEMBER 2ND, 2008

Today we are homeward bound via the intrastate highway system. It takes us approximately 15 hours to make the trip back to Florida.

I will attempt to summarize some of our information from the trip for the benefit of others who may be considering such adventures.

We covered 3,222.2 nautical miles this summer. We went as far north as Baddeck, Nova Scotia (on the Bras D'Or Lakes) and as far south as Fishing Bay, Virginia (on the Chesapeake). Originally we had hoped to sail the south coast of Newfoundland but we soon realized that we did not have enough time to do that. We found that as one goes further afield, with a limited time schedule, you suffer a significant drop in the percentage of time that you are able to sail. Often you find yourself motoring, in light air conditions, in order to cover the required distance each day. This is one of our biggest complaints. Either we need to retire or else not venture so far.
The summer time trip north, from the Chesapeake to Maine, is nearly always a long, hot, windless, motorboat trip. All one wants to do is to get there.
When visiting Nova Scotia and further, large distances are covered requiring much time and significant allowances for weather and other complications.
The coast of Nova Scotia is not sheltered like Maine. It is the open ocean where many currents and weather systems interact. This makes life rather interesting at times.
Unlike Maine you have to often stay well off the coast of Nova Scotia due to the prevalence of rocks and ledges scattered about. This often limits ones appreciation of the coast itself.
The coastal economy of Canada is in the basement since the fishing industry has all but evaporated.
We have never met nicer people than those that we encountered while visiting the Canadian coast!!!! I have read this fact several times but I can not reiterate it enough.
Yacht clubs in Canada tend to be casual, inexpensive places frequented by avid, experienced sailors who are very outgoing, unassuming, pleasant, and helpful. The clubs usually have complete facilities, including internet, and they are also the best place to obtain diesel fuel.
VHF weather reporting in Canada is adequate but not as well organized as in the U.S. and two to three days is the maximum that they will predict for.
No fresh meats, fresh produce, cigarettes, or significant amounts of alcohol may be transported back and forth between Canada and the U.S..
We experienced rather relaxed U.S. border protection services, however, the Canadians were more thorough and one is likely to be stopped by their coastal patrol boats somewhere along the way. On the other hand, the Canadians were very pleasant and apologetic when they were inconveniencing us.
During the summer there is no lobstering in Canada. That means no buoys to worry about.
On the whole the weather is better in Maine and Maine is also more picturesque and protected.
In both Canada and Maine, both sailors and businesses begin the winterization process as of October 1st.
In both Maine and Canada the water is very cold. You will have difficulties if in it for much more than ten minutes. Therefore survival suits are inexpensive insurance for emergency situations and wetsuits are recommended although not absolutely necessary for diving to cut pot wraps off your propeller shaft.
Engine repair facilities are available nearly everywhere.
Sail repair facilities are harder to find in Canada.
Routine towing services are not available in Canada.
In many areas the tides and currents must be taken into consideration.
During the return trip from Maine in the fall you tend to have more wind.
One must motor through both the C & D Canal and the Cape Cod Canal.
South of Maine if you wish to stay in most village harbors you are required to take a mooring or slip at significant expense. This is not true in Maine and Canada.
Most village harbors in Maine and Canada have town dinghy docks which give the sailor free access to the shore.
Passing through New York City, via the East River, at night is a wonderful experience.
Most people dread the trip along the New Jersey shore, however, IF you are patient and time things right, it can be a wonderful sail.
The Chesapeake Bay is a wonderful area to sail, however, access to the shore is often limited by private property and towns with no public dinghy docks. Being couped up on the boat for long periods is our second biggest complaint. So, in the future we are going the concentrate our travels in areas where there are limited restrictions on shore access.
The number of full time cruisers out there doing the "snowbird" migration each year is truly amazing. In the fall you often often surrounded by countless boats making their way south.

Next summer we plan to concentrate our sailing along the coast of Maine and do extensive exploring and hiking along the way.

If you are interested in our experiences and have specific questions you may contact us at advnturunlimitd at yahoo dot com.

We would like to thank everyone who helped make our trip a success including those who enriched our experience along the way. Hopefully we will see more of you next year.

Reminder: This blog is presented in reverse order (the most recent posting is first). Also, all photos can be enlarged by clicking on them.

Friday, November 7, 2008

DAYS # 107 & 108 - SOLOMONS, MARYLAND

OCTOBER 31ST & NOVEMBER 1ST, 2008

We spent two rushed days stripping "Evergreen" and preparing her for the winterization process.




When we could fit no more in our trusty truck we called the job done.


The final sunset at the marina always is associated with a mixed bag of emotions.

DAY # 106 - CASSON POINT TO SOLOMONS, MARYLAND

OCTOBER 30TH, 2008

Since we are nearing the end of our trip every minute counts. We were up before the sunrise so as to enjoy the start of the day.







We finally hauled our anchor for the last time and sailed across and down the Bay towards Solomons, our home port. We passed the familiar lighthouse and fuel off-loading terminal while surrounded by countless other cruisers headed south for the winter season. Unfortunately, we could not accompany them.



Due to the crisp, clear day we were able to enjoy the fall colors along the shore during the final leg of our journey.

24.8 NM

DAY # 105 - WATERHOLE COVE TO CASSON POINT, HUDSON CREEK, LITTLE CHOPTANK

OCTOBER 29, 2008

Winds are down to 15 - 25+ knots so we sailed down to one of our favorite anchorages behind Casson Point. Today is the second anniversary of our first overnight trip (to Casson Point) on our Cape Dory 36 "Evergreen" so of course we had to be here. It was more windy than previous times that we have been here but the setting and sunset were still beautiful. We decided that this is an appropriate way to end our summer cruise.







19 NM

DAY # 104 - WATERHOLE COVE, HARRIS CREEK, EASTERN SHORE

OCTOBER 28TH, 2008



Northwest winds at 20 - 45 knots. Despite the fact that we were anchored in a relatively small cove, the low lying land surrounding us did not provide much wind protection. That combined with the need to anchor at a distance from shore (due to the shallow water) created some pretty choppy water in our "protected" anchorage. However, our Rocna anchor and 150 foot of chain held us securely as the wind whistled through the rigging.

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

DAY #103 - COX CREEK TO WATERHOLE COVE, HARRIS CREEK

OCTOBER 27TH, 2008

Gale warnings have been forecast for tomorrow. So we must find a more protected place to hang out. We also need to work our way south since we only have a few more days on the Bay.

In N.W. winds at 15 - 25 knots we sailed south and turned into the Choptank. We headed up Harris Creek but the land is low (not offering much shelter) and it is nearly impossible to get close to shore due to the shallows.

We finally anchored in Waterhole Cove. It was fairly open but at least we had some space around us in case we dragged anchor.

28.8 NM

DAY # 102 - FISHING CREEK TO COX CREEK (EASTERN BAY)

OCTOBER 26TH, 2008

We woke to a beautiful, clear, sunny, calm day. What a drastic change.



We headed north on the Bay passing countless fish traps in the shallows.



33.4 NM

DAY # 101 - FISHING CREEK (EASTERN SHORE)

OCTOBER 25TH, 2008

Today the wind is blowing out of the south at 20 - 30+ knots. There is significant chop even in our protected anchorage.

So we just hung on our hook for the day. Sorry, no photos - we didn't even want to take the camera outside in the weather.

DAY #100 - FISHING BAY, VIRGINIA TO FISHING CREEK, MARYLAND (EASTERN SHORE - LITTLE CHOPTANK)

OCTOBER 24TH, 2008

The day started with another beautiful sunrise.



We were up early in hopes of using the east wind to cover a significant distance back up the Bay. It seems that this time of year the wind is out of the north the majority of the time.



As we traveled along the west side of the Bay we passed a couple of old lighthouses that are now automated.

Finally, well after dark, we turned into the Little Choptank River. We had our fingers crossed while hoping that we would not wrap a crap pot line on our prop in the dark.

75.8 NM

DAY #99 - MYER CREEK TO FISHING BAY, PIANKATANK RIVER

OCTOBER 23RD, 2008

Winds were supposed to be NE @ 10 - 15. So it is time to start making some progress back up the Bay. However, after a nice sail down the Rappahannock River, we found the winds to be only about 8 - 10 knots and the chop that had developed yesterday was still rolling down the Bay. Our boat requires about 12 knots of wind to sail effectively into a chop so we gave up on the idea of heading north. Instead we turned south and sailed into the Piankatank River and anchored inside the hook forming Fishing Bay.



The anchorage was perfect. We were protected from the wind and waves but we still had grand views towards the west and the sunset.



Perhaps we should just keep going south like everyone else was doing.

26.2 NM

DAY #98 - MYER CREEK

OCTOBER 22, 2008

The wind was blowing out of the north at 20 - 30 knots so we decided to stay in our snug, sheltered spot just inside Myer Creek. If we had not listened to the VHF radio we would never have guessed how windy it was on the outside.



The crisp, cool, clear morning produced a very pretty sunrise.



The sunset was also pretty.

DAY #97 - E. BRANCH OF CORROTOMAN RIVER TO MYER CREEK

OCTOBER 21ST, 2008

We motored the short distance over to Myer Creek. Not wishing to use the trial and error approach to entering the creek we anchored just inside the mouth of the creek.



We loaded up the dinghy and went into Myer Creek to visit our friends Dave and Diane who were having their "music night" tonight. They have an Allied Seabreeze which is very similar to our Cape Dory 36. They are lucky enough to have a beautiful piece of fairly secluded waterfront property on the creek with their house hidden in the woods.



Their love of sailing and life on the water was even in evidence in the construction of their house.

Aside from Dave and Diane at least eight other muscians showed up and a good time was had by all.

2.9 NM

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

DAY #96 - E. BRANCH OF CORROTOMAN RIVER (OUT & BACK)

OCTOBER 20TH, 2008



The night was cold so we slept late in our cozy cabin. We woke to an eerie sight. The surface of the warmer water was steaming in the cold morning. It reminded us that Halloween is on the way.



Another building out of the past. Perhaps somebody's cabin on the water when there was not the abundance of modern luxury waterfront homes.



The Canadian Geese were soaking up the sun on the beach before beginning their activities of the day.



We had originally decided to sail down to the next river south on the Bay (the Piankatank River), however, once we got out in the open we realized there was insufficient wind so we just sailed around the Rappahannock River until the wind totally died and then returned to the Eastern Branch of the Corrotoman River. The seagull that we had fed the evening before soon reappeared thinking that there were going to be daily handouts.





The creek was flat calm as the sun set.

16.2 NM

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

DAY #95 - CARTER CREEK TO EASTERN BRANCH OF CORROTOMAN RIVER

OCTOBER 19TH, 2008

It is still blowing like stink on the outside but we would like to move a little so today we will explore sheltered Carter Creek and the Corrotoman River.



We noticed that some people had bamboo growing even this far north.





We passed many assorted styles of houses, both new and old.



This old barn is evidence of a past and different way of life on the creek.



We wondered what kind of stories this old boat had to tell.



There were not many boats out on the Rappahannock even though it was fairly sheltered.



We decided to also explore Myers Creek, where some friends live. However, when we ran aground, we decided that more in depth local knowledge would be required. On the way out we spotted a fellow Cape Dory (Maggie Rose).

We anchored for the night in the totally calm Eastern Branch of the Corrotoman River.

11.2 NM

DAY #94 - ONANCOCK CREEK - EASTERN BRANCH OF CARTER CREEK (RAPPAHANNOCK AREA)

OCTOBER 18TH, 2008

We woke to the wind whistling through the rigging at 15 - 25 knots. We were securely anchored with our Rocna anchor behind the sand dunes at the entrance of Onancock Creek, however, they did little to stop the wind. The wind was predicted to increase to 20 - 30 knots and remain that way for at least two days. We decided that we would prefer a little more shelter so we decided to cross the Bay to the Rappahannock River area. That would be a reach and board reach which would be manageable with a reduced sail area. With a double reefed main (should have triple reefed) and staysail we crossed the Bay averaging 7 - 8+ knots. Boy, what a ride. As the wind increased to 30+ knots the seas became high and steep. This turned out to be one of the rare times that Sharon was not a happy camper. The water smoothed out as we entered the Rappahannock River but the wind was still blowing 15 - 30 knots so it made for a nice beat up river to the shelter of Carter Creek.







We anchored in the Eastern Branch of Carter Creek. There was barely a ripple on the water and there was just a mild breeze. The creek was a little more populated than what we usually like but the peace and quite was pleasant. Included are some photos of what a typical lower Chesapeake Bay creek looks like.

35.9 NM

DAY #93 - MILL CREEK TO ONANCOCK, VIRGINIA (EASTERN SHORE)

OCTOBER 17TH, 2008

Today we woke to rain and the smell of anchovies. It turns out that the north wind was blowing the smell of the Fleeton menhaden fish processing plant our way. Since we both like anchovies we were soon craving pizza with anchovies and a pitcher of ale for breakfast.

We set out midday when we thought the rain had cleared. Instead of rolling down the Bay on a run we changed our plans and headed on a reach across the Bay to Onancock Creek. Unfortunately, it rained off and on the entire time. At least we had a good sail. We anchored just inside Ware Point. It turned out to be a very protected and possibly picturesque anchorage even though the winds were whistling across the dunes of the point. If it had not been raining it would have been a near perfect anchorage. Sorry - no photos due to wind and rain.

26.1 NM

Friday, October 17, 2008

DAY #92 - SOLOMONS TO MILL CREEK, VIRGINIA (WICOMICO AREA)

OCTOBER 16TH, 2008

Having reprovisioned, it was time to head back out to enjoy our last two weeks on the water this season. We decided to explore the southern Chesapeake since we had never been there.



There was minimal if any wind so we motored south and passed a couple of old lighthouses.



As we turned into the Wicomico River area we found ourselves dodging fish traps and strange looking fishing vessels. There were schools of fish everywhere.



We anchored in Mill Creek. We had the pleasant surprise of finding another Cape Dory 36 ("Assurance") anchored nearby, however, no one was on board at the time.

42 NM

DAY # 91 - BACK CREEK TO ZAHNISERS YACHTING CENTER (SOLOMONS)

OCTOBER 15TH, 2008

Today we hauled our anchor and headed over to our home marina. The day was spent reprovisioning and doing minor engine maintenance. We were happy to find that our vehicle still started right up after sitting idle while we were away.

1.1 NM

DAY #90 - LITTLE CHOPTANK RIVER TO BACK CREEK (SOLOMONS)

OCTOBER 14TH, 2008



We woke to a very still morning with a hint of fog over the water. The stillness was only broken by the distant Canadian Geese and an occasional crab line boat slowly motoring by.





Towards late morning a nice breeze came up and we sailed out of the Little Choptank, and down the Bay towards the Patuxent River. As the sun set we motored into Solomons and anchored in Back Creek. The entire harbor was packed with anchored cruising boats who were migrating south.



37.2 NM

DAY #89 - FLATTY COVE TO LITTLE CHOPTANK RIVER

OCTOBER 13TH, 2008

Flatty Cove turned out to be a nice anchorage with minimal traffic and pretty surroundings.



We woke to a bright sunny day with light wind, so as we sailed out of the Choptank we passed many sailing vessels working their way home after the holiday weekend.



We explored and anchored in the Little Choptank River. The low lying and sparsely populated area was very attractive and we had excellent views of the sunset from our anchorage.







25.9 NM